A messsage to our family and friends

Thanks for coming to our page. We hope you enjoy a sample of our travel writing. Make sure you leave a comment about what's happening back home so we can stay in touch. Jen and Ross Byrne.

Monday, February 15, 2010

we say goodbye to Beunos Aires - our last day until the land from down under, where women glow and men thunder



Hi family and friends

Well, we have survived six weeks in this beautiful continent, South America and on our last day we soak in the sights and sounds of Latin America's tango music and shopping district of Beunos Aires which became our home base of three stays..

It's a Sunday morning and the shops open around 10am by a screech of an aluminium door and the unlocking of a padlock. Coffee is brewing, locals and tourists have stepped onto the footpaths for the morning sights and in the park the few homeless people are dead to the world on their park bench beds.

We stroll around the avenues, find a corner cafe for ham and eggs, that's right...... it's not usually bacon and eggs, but thin ham and eggs with delicious coffee. We sit smiling at each other across the table as our minds go back through their c drive to the files of thoughts of places we have visited.

We will be back.

Friday, February 12, 2010


Our great expedition - The Antarctic - a snap shot



Hi followers

For the last ten days Ross and I have been through some life changing experiences. Leaving Ushuaia, South America and sailing down through the Beagle Channel to Drake's Passage - the roughest stretch of water in the world - yep, pretty rough and our stomachs can prove it - However, it was well worth the two day's of sickness to finally arrive in the South Pole in our very courageous scientific boat named the Professor Molchanov , with a Russian crew.

So many tales, so many experiences that this blog certainly won't be able to reflect the sights, sounds and smells of a truly magical place. Magic on the outside riding in Zodiac boats to the shore, walking up snow covered hills and mingling at a safe distance with penguins, whale and seals.

You're just going to have to come to our slide show for a lot more but the photos above will give you a taste of what we experienced.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

A photo shoot mural





And I think to myself... what a wonderful world - Loui Armstrong was right


Here's a magical photo of Rossco as we wander along the streets at 9.30p.m. at night. Sunset is around 10p.m. We see boats tied up at the wharf, tourists strolling around the city, the majestic snow topped mountains nestling in for the night and lupins dancing merrily to the gentle sea breeze.

Monday, February 1, 2010

A shot on top of the world in Bariloche

Ushuaia, Argentina - the gateway to the Antarctic and the plane trip there


Hi all

This afternoon we arrive in Ushuaia, the southern most part of Argentina. We started out at 5am this morning with checkout, airport departures and two flights via Argentina Airlines. Now, their customer service ethos is something to behold.

Naturally we were in first class - seats 1a and 1b right up the front, so we got to see exactly what goes on with the airline staff and ground controllers..... and what doesn't go on.
We both came to the conclusion that the best part of the employment arrangement at Argentina Airlines are firstly the kisses everyone gives each other, pilots included.... and secondly the food that the hosties pretend not to eat but scoff down in between walks down the aisle way.

Then of course there's the chit chat and the putting on of makeup right in front of your eyes - even hosties on Jetstar we think are better behaved - ha ha.

We smelt the aroma of freshly baked bread but alas that was a nice hot meal for the crew. The passengers didn't get fed and watered. But, what did we care, because we were having the trip of a lifetime and on the first flight we did get a coffee, a croissant and cream caramel spread.

We landed at around 2.30p.m. and headed for our hotel - The Albatross. Close and handy to the port we would be transferring to tomorrow to board our Russian boat.

A light lunch, a walk up and down the streets to find gucci shops for the rich and famous, chocolate shops and in the back streets, we were relieved to find an industrial 'tradies' shop where we could purchase our gumboots ready for the voyage which we were instructed to buy.

Back to to hotel for a little wi fi blogging, a rest and re-charge of the battery ready to view the nightlife, clubs, moon dancing etc.

Till later, it's time to have forty winks and dream of penguins. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Sunday, January 31, 2010

does a circle have an end?




Hi family and friends

Our South American circle tour is coming to an end. As per the diagram above, we have been so very lucky to have experienced many sights from Beunos Aires in Argentina, Rio in Brazil, The Amazon, Machu Pichu, LIma and Cusco in Peru, La Paz in Bolivia, Santiago and Bariloche in Chile and all surrounding areas.

We've seen many birds, waterways, caught paranna, tasted local flavours, strolled through markets, sighted kombi vans, smiled at little children and babies, greeted, acknowledged and tipped waiters, avoided 'code yellow' street merchants, paced many footpaths, climbed staircases of stony steps and hopped across puddles. We have gazed at the events of time and absorbed the ambiance of historical churches.

We've drunk aqua con gas and aqua sin gas (water with and without bubbles), made friends with 8 tour guides and other fellow travellers, packed and unpacked our suitcases which are beginning to bulge in places, purchased trinkets and momentos for loved ones back home and most of all, been absorbed with the many cultures, customs and way of life for people in these countries where borders are over the fence or a line across the pathway.

Best of all, we have spent time with each other where the golden rule is no sulking, being brave, happy and ready for the next adventure for each day's activities.

Thank you Peregrine for a great adventure. Now we head to Antarctic for scientific lectures, landings in zodiac boats to capture the wonderful world of ice and great southern oceans.

Saturday, January 30, 2010

a really bad photo of a photo but can you feel our excitement


Hi guys

the original photo is great but the quality of this one isnt the best. Its 1am in the morning and I'm a tad tired but I thought I would share this photo of Ross and I going up a chairlift in Bariloche earlier today (or yesterday).

Gee you're all going to be bored at our slide night.

Good night for now.xxxxx


a sample of pics



Bariloche, Argentina - the Patagonia Area





Hello again followers

We have spent the last day and a half in this beautiful part of the world where the Andes protect the valleys, welcome the Condor birds in search of a good home, and allow tranquil lakes to reside in the valleys.

Yesterday we spent the day travelling from Peurto Varras to Bariloche and the only way to be transported was by: Bus to Boat, Boat to Bus, Bus to Boat, Boat to Bus which was very well arranged and organised but it took all day on three different boats and included one four wheel drive bus as we motored up and over a mountain.

Our destination brought us to the town of Bariloche which looked like a place out of The Sound of Music. Very much a german theme with alpine homes, timberwork and fresh green gardens.

In winter, the district becomes a hive of activity with skiers. In summer, more tranquil activiites like trout fishing, golfing and chocolate making.

Our stay is a short one, where we bed down the night in a comfortable hotel and today we had the "Last Supper" lunch with our companions as our South America circle tour draws to a close. We return tonight to Beunos Aires to re-pack our bags for our Antarctic Adventure.

Thursday, January 28, 2010

Southern Chile = a place like home






Hello to all

We have arrived and visited Peurto Montt and are staying in a nearby town named Peurto Varras which resides by a beautiful lake. The small city with its homes and gardens reminds me of home with hydrangeas, lupins, daisies and ferns. The location is about 42 degrees south, aligning with Hobart and the weather patterns.

In the distance, we see rising from the horizon hills and jagged pointed mountains. Some of which are active and some, nonactive...volcanos. We decide in the afternoon to visit one and take the chairlift to part way up the mountain where the snow greets up (and also craters!).

We feel game and come down the mountain by a steel wire flying fox, individually tied by harnesses and carabiners. I am a tad scared to start with after getting the gear on and chicken out at the last minute. I tell my South American guide, I need to walk down or catch the chairlift. Behind me, my husband gives me some orders, do it for Soft Rock, go Jenno. With that in mind, I tell myself I can do it and I overcome the sense of fear and go with it. One hand on the ropes, and one hand on the manual brake. I go flying through the air about 10 foot above the ground. And, guess what, I start enjoying the experience.

This, I believe, is one of the first times in my life that I have broken the fear barrier. Ross was great support to help me realise this.

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Pisco Sour is the drink in Chile

Hi people

We have had a brief taste (and drink) of Santiago, Chile with a city tour on a glorious 28 degrees day with not a cloud in the sky, only a little haze of polution. We are shown the monumental sites, a beautiful church, residence of the President etc and head in the afternoon to a vineyard: Castella del Diablo.

The evening before we enjoy the company of our two Queensland friends and dine at an alfresco restaurant and are entertained by street musicians, who at the end of their song, pass around to collect the tips of diners.

We end up (the girls) dancing in the street to celebrate Australia Day back home. The pisco sours (national drink) make us feel young again.

Money is interesting - dinner cost the four of us $74,000 pesos which is the equivalent to $144.00 US.

Must go and catch a plane to Peurto Montt.

For now........

Sunday, January 24, 2010

Happy Australian Day Australia



We are thinking of all Aussies as they celebrate Australia Day tomorrow. Here in Bolivia there will be celebrations for those who show their Australian Passport the day after tomorrow. Alas, we will be leaving in the morning for a plane ride to Santiago, Chile but we will be thinking of how proud we are to be Aussies and still call Australia home. Now, wouldn't that make a great song title!

Travel is sometimes a paradoxical experience


On arriving in La Paz which has a population of 1 million people, we are awestruck by the sight we see when we travel through the outskirts of the city and then arrive at a mountain top which overlooks the concentrated city below. It is pure magic and our heads become light headed from both the altitude and the view.

However, when we reach our hotel and check in with cyber world we receive news of a loved one back home who is not well and has been taken to hospital. We are grateful to our wonderful family who are going the extra mile to provide love and support whilst we are so very far away.

Travel is great to experience. The sights, sounds and cultures are always so great. But sometimes it is only when you are away, that you truly value family and friends and the stretch of land and sea that divide us from hugs, kisses and reassuring words and deeds bring home the importance of letting people know you love and care for them

Good night to our loved ones and special thoughts and best wishes to you all - and Jean for a speedy recovery.xx

As Monty Python sings " Always look on the bright side of life, de dum, de dum"



We say goodbye to Peru and approach the border where Lake Titikaka joins the shores of Bolivia. We survive a bus rise of approx 2 hours - we felt like we were in India. Why you ask? The road was pretty rough in places, with pot holes and mud on the road and our bus driver who loves weaving in and out of cars coming the other way, dodging pot holes as he went.

Along the way we saw farm villages and an extraordinary sight of a mini bus carrying about 15 people with what looked like half a dozen live sheep tied down on the top of the roof.

The best was yet to come though. As we said farewell to our bus driver, our administrative tour guide ushered us to a line which would be as long as the Tasman Bridge. We quickly found that a sense of humour was the best medicine or the alternative was to bribe a few authorities to jump the queue. As many of my family and friends know, this option was certainly out of ethical bounds for us, so the four of us, in pouring rain and intermittent sunshine, made the best of a bad situation with our passports ready.

When you know there's nothing much you can do, you just bear it. And, yes Poppy Ted and lil Chockie had to wait in line as well. In fact, Poppy Ted poked his head amongst some fellow travellers while they were sheltering under a plastic poncho and gave them a bit of a scare before they realised he wasn't going to harm them.

We shared stories in the line, watched beggars in the streets, took in the cooking smells - food which we couldn't possibly eat safety and as traditional aussies, got to laugh about our circumstances. Then we sobered our frivolity up when we considered we were the lucky ones to be where we were, travelling and experiencing things and also thought about the poor victims of Haiti and the utter trauma and loss of life they were experiencing.

All in all, it took about 3 hours in line until we got to the office where our passport had to be stamped and our Peruvian paperwork passed by the authorities. Then it was off to meet our tour guide who would host his city La Paz and what a sight we were in for.

Peruvian dancing - ooh la la


On our last night in Puno, Peru we go out to dinner with our group and are entertained by beautiful dancers - both male and female.

On the menu is alpaca, steaks, pastas and chicken dishes cooked in South American style and each dish heats up by the swirl of dresses, the beat of drums and the magical music of the pan pipe and intricate strumming of guitars.

Puictures of the life on Lake Titikaka




Hi to our faithful followers

Have arrived in La Paz, which is the capital of Bolivia after leaving Puno in Peru. We are in a hotel which has good wi fi in the hotel rooms, so are able to display a few shots of our time on the beautiful Lake Titikaka which is 12500 feet above sea level and the highest lake of its size in the world. It covers 8300 sq kms and lies between Peru and Bolivia.

On the outskirt sections of the lake, villages build of reeds by the local people, float on top with ties for stabilisation. On each island, homes have been built out of reeds and straw and the people's daily lives consists of fishing, farming and weaving, as well as providing tourists with a taste of their way of life.

We will show more shots when we get home, like to shot of me holding a gorgeous little bambino and Ross and I taking a ride on a reed boat.

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Overlooking the township of Puno



With compliments of Google Images