we say goodbye to Beunos Aires - our last day until the land from down under, where women glow and men thunder

Hi family and friends

Well, we have survived six weeks in this beautiful continent, South America and on our last day we soak in the sights and sounds of Latin America's tango music and shopping district of Beunos Aires which became our home base of three stays..

It's a Sunday morning and the shops open around 10am by a screech of an aluminium door and the unlocking of a padlock. Coffee is brewing, locals and tourists have stepped onto the footpaths for the morning sights and in the park the few homeless people are dead to the world on their park bench beds.

We stroll around the avenues, find a corner cafe for ham and eggs, that's right...... it's not usually bacon and eggs, but thin ham and eggs with delicious coffee. We sit smiling at each other across the table as our minds go back through their c drive to the files of thoughts of places we have visited.

We will be back.

Our great expedition - The Antarctic - a snap shot

Hi followers

For the last ten days Ross and I have been through some life changing experiences. Leaving Ushuaia, South America and sailing down through the Beagle Channel to Drake's Passage - the roughest stretch of water in the world - yep, pretty rough and our stomachs can prove it - However, it was well worth the two day's of sickness to finally arrive in the South Pole in our very courageous scientific boat named the Professor Molchanov , with a Russian crew.

So many tales, so many experiences that this blog certainly won't be able to reflect the sights, sounds and smells of a truly magical place. Magic on the outside riding in Zodiac boats to the shore, walking up snow covered hills and mingling at a safe distance with penguins, whale and seals.

You're just going to have to come to our slide show for a lot more but the photos above will give you a taste of what we experienced.

A photo shoot mural

And I think to myself... what a wonderful world - Loui Armstrong was right

Here's a magical photo of Rossco as we wander along the streets at 9.30p.m. at night. Sunset is around 10p.m. We see boats tied up at the wharf, tourists strolling around the city, the majestic snow topped mountains nestling in for the night and lupins dancing merrily to the gentle sea breeze.

A shot on top of the world in Bariloche

Ushuaia, Argentina - the gateway to the Antarctic and the plane trip there

Hi all

This afternoon we arrive in Ushuaia, the southern most part of Argentina. We started out at 5am this morning with checkout, airport departures and two flights via Argentina Airlines. Now, their customer service ethos is something to behold.

Naturally we were in first class - seats 1a and 1b right up the front, so we got to see exactly what goes on with the airline staff and ground controllers..... and what doesn't go on.
We both came to the conclusion that the best part of the employment arrangement at Argentina Airlines are firstly the kisses everyone gives each other, pilots included.... and secondly the food that the hosties pretend not to eat but scoff down in between walks down the aisle way.

Then of course there's the chit chat and the putting on of makeup right in front of your eyes - even hosties on Jetstar we think are better behaved - ha ha.

We smelt the aroma of freshly baked bread but alas that was a nice hot meal for the crew. The passengers didn't get fed and watered. But, what did we care, because we were having the trip of a lifetime and on the first flight we did get a coffee, a croissant and cream caramel spread.

We landed at around 2.30p.m. and headed for our hotel - The Albatross. Close and handy to the port we would be transferring to tomorrow to board our Russian boat.

A light lunch, a walk up and down the streets to find gucci shops for the rich and famous, chocolate shops and in the back streets, we were relieved to find an industrial 'tradies' shop where we could purchase our gumboots ready for the voyage which we were instructed to buy.

Back to to hotel for a little wi fi blogging, a rest and re-charge of the battery ready to view the nightlife, clubs, moon dancing etc.

Till later, it's time to have forty winks and dream of penguins. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

does a circle have an end?

Hi family and friends

Our South American circle tour is coming to an end. As per the diagram above, we have been so very lucky to have experienced many sights from Beunos Aires in Argentina, Rio in Brazil, The Amazon, Machu Pichu, LIma and Cusco in Peru, La Paz in Bolivia, Santiago and Bariloche in Chile and all surrounding areas.

We've seen many birds, waterways, caught paranna, tasted local flavours, strolled through markets, sighted kombi vans, smiled at little children and babies, greeted, acknowledged and tipped waiters, avoided 'code yellow' street merchants, paced many footpaths, climbed staircases of stony steps and hopped across puddles. We have gazed at the events of time and absorbed the ambiance of historical churches.

We've drunk aqua con gas and aqua sin gas (water with and without bubbles), made friends with 8 tour guides and other fellow travellers, packed and unpacked our suitcases which are beginning to bulge in places, purchased trinkets and momentos for loved ones back home and most of all, been absorbed with the many cultures, customs and way of life for people in these countries where borders are over the fence or a line across the pathway.

Best of all, we have spent time with each other where the golden rule is no sulking, being brave, happy and ready for the next adventure for each day's activities.

Thank you Peregrine for a great adventure. Now we head to Antarctic for scientific lectures, landings in zodiac boats to capture the wonderful world of ice and great southern oceans.

a really bad photo of a photo but can you feel our excitement

Hi guys

the original photo is great but the quality of this one isnt the best. Its 1am in the morning and I'm a tad tired but I thought I would share this photo of Ross and I going up a chairlift in Bariloche earlier today (or yesterday).

Gee you're all going to be bored at our slide night.

Good night for now.xxxxx

a sample of pics

Bariloche, Argentina - the Patagonia Area

Hello again followers

We have spent the last day and a half in this beautiful part of the world where the Andes protect the valleys, welcome the Condor birds in search of a good home, and allow tranquil lakes to reside in the valleys.

Yesterday we spent the day travelling from Peurto Varras to Bariloche and the only way to be transported was by: Bus to Boat, Boat to Bus, Bus to Boat, Boat to Bus which was very well arranged and organised but it took all day on three different boats and included one four wheel drive bus as we motored up and over a mountain.

Our destination brought us to the town of Bariloche which looked like a place out of The Sound of Music. Very much a german theme with alpine homes, timberwork and fresh green gardens.

In winter, the district becomes a hive of activity with skiers. In summer, more tranquil activiites like trout fishing, golfing and chocolate making.

Our stay is a short one, where we bed down the night in a comfortable hotel and today we had the "Last Supper" lunch with our companions as our South America circle tour draws to a close. We return tonight to Beunos Aires to re-pack our bags for our Antarctic Adventure.

Southern Chile = a place like home

Hello to all

We have arrived and visited Peurto Montt and are staying in a nearby town named Peurto Varras which resides by a beautiful lake. The small city with its homes and gardens reminds me of home with hydrangeas, lupins, daisies and ferns. The location is about 42 degrees south, aligning with Hobart and the weather patterns.

In the distance, we see rising from the horizon hills and jagged pointed mountains. Some of which are active and some, nonactive...volcanos. We decide in the afternoon to visit one and take the chairlift to part way up the mountain where the snow greets up (and also craters!).

We feel game and come down the mountain by a steel wire flying fox, individually tied by harnesses and carabiners. I am a tad scared to start with after getting the gear on and chicken out at the last minute. I tell my South American guide, I need to walk down or catch the chairlift. Behind me, my husband gives me some orders, do it for Soft Rock, go Jenno. With that in mind, I tell myself I can do it and I overcome the sense of fear and go with it. One hand on the ropes, and one hand on the manual brake. I go flying through the air about 10 foot above the ground. And, guess what, I start enjoying the experience.

This, I believe, is one of the first times in my life that I have broken the fear barrier. Ross was great support to help me realise this.

Pisco Sour is the drink in Chile

Hi people

We have had a brief taste (and drink) of Santiago, Chile with a city tour on a glorious 28 degrees day with not a cloud in the sky, only a little haze of polution. We are shown the monumental sites, a beautiful church, residence of the President etc and head in the afternoon to a vineyard: Castella del Diablo.

The evening before we enjoy the company of our two Queensland friends and dine at an alfresco restaurant and are entertained by street musicians, who at the end of their song, pass around to collect the tips of diners.

We end up (the girls) dancing in the street to celebrate Australia Day back home. The pisco sours (national drink) make us feel young again.

Money is interesting - dinner cost the four of us $74,000 pesos which is the equivalent to $144.00 US.

Must go and catch a plane to Peurto Montt.

For now........

Happy Australian Day Australia

We are thinking of all Aussies as they celebrate Australia Day tomorrow. Here in Bolivia there will be celebrations for those who show their Australian Passport the day after tomorrow. Alas, we will be leaving in the morning for a plane ride to Santiago, Chile but we will be thinking of how proud we are to be Aussies and still call Australia home. Now, wouldn't that make a great song title!

Travel is sometimes a paradoxical experience

On arriving in La Paz which has a population of 1 million people, we are awestruck by the sight we see when we travel through the outskirts of the city and then arrive at a mountain top which overlooks the concentrated city below. It is pure magic and our heads become light headed from both the altitude and the view.

However, when we reach our hotel and check in with cyber world we receive news of a loved one back home who is not well and has been taken to hospital. We are grateful to our wonderful family who are going the extra mile to provide love and support whilst we are so very far away.

Travel is great to experience. The sights, sounds and cultures are always so great. But sometimes it is only when you are away, that you truly value family and friends and the stretch of land and sea that divide us from hugs, kisses and reassuring words and deeds bring home the importance of letting people know you love and care for them

Good night to our loved ones and special thoughts and best wishes to you all - and Jean for a speedy recovery.xx

As Monty Python sings " Always look on the bright side of life, de dum, de dum"

We say goodbye to Peru and approach the border where Lake Titikaka joins the shores of Bolivia. We survive a bus rise of approx 2 hours - we felt like we were in India. Why you ask? The road was pretty rough in places, with pot holes and mud on the road and our bus driver who loves weaving in and out of cars coming the other way, dodging pot holes as he went.

Along the way we saw farm villages and an extraordinary sight of a mini bus carrying about 15 people with what looked like half a dozen live sheep tied down on the top of the roof.

The best was yet to come though. As we said farewell to our bus driver, our administrative tour guide ushered us to a line which would be as long as the Tasman Bridge. We quickly found that a sense of humour was the best medicine or the alternative was to bribe a few authorities to jump the queue. As many of my family and friends know, this option was certainly out of ethical bounds for us, so the four of us, in pouring rain and intermittent sunshine, made the best of a bad situation with our passports ready.

When you know there's nothing much you can do, you just bear it. And, yes Poppy Ted and lil Chockie had to wait in line as well. In fact, Poppy Ted poked his head amongst some fellow travellers while they were sheltering under a plastic poncho and gave them a bit of a scare before they realised he wasn't going to harm them.

We shared stories in the line, watched beggars in the streets, took in the cooking smells - food which we couldn't possibly eat safety and as traditional aussies, got to laugh about our circumstances. Then we sobered our frivolity up when we considered we were the lucky ones to be where we were, travelling and experiencing things and also thought about the poor victims of Haiti and the utter trauma and loss of life they were experiencing.

All in all, it took about 3 hours in line until we got to the office where our passport had to be stamped and our Peruvian paperwork passed by the authorities. Then it was off to meet our tour guide who would host his city La Paz and what a sight we were in for.

Peruvian dancing - ooh la la

On our last night in Puno, Peru we go out to dinner with our group and are entertained by beautiful dancers - both male and female.

On the menu is alpaca, steaks, pastas and chicken dishes cooked in South American style and each dish heats up by the swirl of dresses, the beat of drums and the magical music of the pan pipe and intricate strumming of guitars.

Puictures of the life on Lake Titikaka

Hi to our faithful followers

Have arrived in La Paz, which is the capital of Bolivia after leaving Puno in Peru. We are in a hotel which has good wi fi in the hotel rooms, so are able to display a few shots of our time on the beautiful Lake Titikaka which is 12500 feet above sea level and the highest lake of its size in the world. It covers 8300 sq kms and lies between Peru and Bolivia.

On the outskirt sections of the lake, villages build of reeds by the local people, float on top with ties for stabilisation. On each island, homes have been built out of reeds and straw and the people's daily lives consists of fishing, farming and weaving, as well as providing tourists with a taste of their way of life.

We will show more shots when we get home, like to shot of me holding a gorgeous little bambino and Ross and I taking a ride on a reed boat.

Overlooking the township of Puno

With compliments of Google Images

A sample google image pic

Unable to upload any of our pictures at present but here´s a sample of the images we are experiencing.

The wheels on the bus go round and round, round and round

Its 4am in the morning Saturday and with altitude sickness trying its hardest to capture my spirit, I find myself at the computer catching up with online communications to loved ones back home.

Today we leave Puno in Peru which is the city that is home to Lake Titikaka - the highest altitude lake in the world I believe.

We have been in Puno, Peru for two days, travelling from Cusco by bus on a 9 hour journey. At first our companions questioned how they would last the distance but we all found with at least 4 - 5 stops to marvel at ruins or 1300 ad churches, the time soon passed. Not to mention, the forty winks cat naps we had which were induced by the hum of the engine and the gentle rocking of the bus.

Along the way we viewed shepherds tending their small flocks of cows, alpaca, lamas or sheep. A lonely figure in the vast green plains with surrounding mountain peaks casting shadows, catching clouds or watching over the lands below.

We saw little old ladies with their jet black hair in plats with their cheery faces beneath a black or brown bowler hat greeting us with wide smiles and souvenirs. We also saw the same aged women with colourful fabrics on their backs laden with firewood, shopping, young children or their souvenir shop yet to be unpacked.

The churches and museums we visited on our stops are absolutely amazing with their history and workmanship of times gone by. In one museum of the inka tribe, it had dsiplayed some human skulls which had evidence of brain surgery operations. Put All Saints to shame I think.

We arrived in Puna around 5.30 p.m., checked into our hotel and started to explore the streets and main square.... but that´s another story. Till then.

Photos of the community - Peru Challenge Project

Our last day in Cusco - Peru

Hi faithful followers

It is our last day in this beautiful city and today we visit a non-government organisation named Peru Challenge iworking in a rural village where a project to build a school, teach school aged children to grade 6, support mothers in afternoon sessions of craft making and health education, support the local community to become sustainable through development of their own skills, knowledge and abilities.

Before we take the 30 minute drive we are taken to a local produce market where we can purchase non perishables to donate to the village we are travelling to. An amazing picture of local and colourful spices, corns and legumes, meats, vegetables, a food court for locals (consisting of huge aluminium pots with home made soups) beautiful breads and the never ending supply of decoratively arranged t shirts and souvenirs.

We purchase rice, oil, pastas, toilet paper, soaps etc which we are guided by our tour guide to buy and at one stall a young boy no older than 12 serves us with the professional retail skill of an adult. His sister (we presume) is unpacking carrots and other vegetables at a nearby table. I smile and say Hola to her. In return I receive a nod and a smile which has a semi disengaged face of a young girl who is slightly retarded, yet her work ethic would put a so called 'normal' child to shame in some cases.

The organisation where we are visiting one project site started in approx 2003 by a 24 year old Australian woman (that's right - pretty awesome) and a local person in Peru. We have been told today that they married last year and have given birth to a baby girl two weeks ago.

Social issues in some low economic areas are linked to government policies and the demon things we have at home - lack of education in some instances, alcohol and domestic violence in some cases and a govt which shut down over 600 rural schools because the children didnt want to attend. We were told of a near by village where the only teacher of the local school was a drunk. That situation has now been rectified.

Some great work has been done by this one organisation and our guide for the morning was the manager of this particular village project who started out as a volunteer whilst back packing around the globe with his girlfriend. They originate from Adelaide, Australia.

We were given a tour of a nearly completed set of classrooms, a chook pen, the sanitary health area where kids learn to wash their hands properly and wash their faces, then apply cream to help protect their skin from the cold winds and altitude related issues. We were also shown the kitchen where a placid smiling lady sat on an upturned bucket peeling a large drum of potatoes with a knife - a meal being prepared for tomorrow.

At present, all children are on school holidays, but the centre provides a holiday program where the children get to sing and dance, use computers (yes, there is a computer lab) and have a meal. We were pleased to wave to the gorgeous children through the glass of their rooms.

The concept of the program is to involve the whole community and learn about sustainable practices - dads, mums and all the family are involved in how everything is done and help through their own commitment to build a better life for their community.
ne
We purchased some crafts made by the women's program where a proportion of the proceeds go to: the person who made the craft, the centre and the kitty for ad hoc expenses.

I also donated some US dollars to the centre to buy pens and paper for the children and teachers - one less shopping spree for me at Officeworks when I get home.

Peregrine, our travel company also sponsor the organisation directly and indirectly by allocating half day tours which we experienced today.

Safety vests but not much safety

Of course, Jen's on the lookout for safety and spotted construction men working by a rapid stream, breaking large boulders up by pick and moving stones by human chain. There are lots of manual handling issues here. But perhaps because of the proud ancestory of the Inka Tribes and their manful skill of building Machu Pichu and other monumental mountain sites, this activity for these Peruvian men is trivial.